Detailed A/B (Acid To Base) Conversion TEK for Converting Cocaine HCL to Cocaine Base

Someone sent me a PM asking for tips on doing a A/B (Acid to Base) conversion on some Cocaine HCL so I thought I would post it a few places as well...

First I gather supplies...

500ml of Petroleum Ether (ebay)

Small Bottle of 29% Ammonium Hydroxide (Same guy on ebay)

60ml Syringes with Large Diameter Blunt Tipped Needles (Amazon)

(Only need 2 needles, but need a bunch of syringes as they lock up from the non-polar solvent after 1 or 2 uses!!)

Mark One Syringe Water or H2O and ALWAYS Use Just That one to Add or Draw Off Water

Shot Glass

Small Glass Eye Dropper

Two Small Sturdy Glass Bottles with Metal (Not Plastic) Caps

(Spice Aisle at Supermarket...I use Poppy Seed Bottles)

Glass Stir Rod (I use an old "Dabber" with a broken Tip)

8 oz Mason Jar

91% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol)(local drug store or supermarket)

Distilled Water (local drug store or supermarket)

PH Test Strips (Petsmart/Fish Store/Pet Store)

(Salt Water kind usually go up to PH 12, and fresh water kind down to PH6)

Small Fan

Large Concave Dinner Plate

Small Concave Salad Plate

Safety Razor Blades(Hardware Store/Paint Scrapper Blades)

Cocaine HCL

First I put 5 full eye droppers of Distilled water in the shot glass...

Then I add 1 Full eye dropper of 29% Ammonium Hydroxide to the shot glass and mix well...

Next I add 1 Gram Cocaine to bottle and fill with 80ml distilled water...(80ml water to every gram of Cocaine is correct for larger amounts)...

Stir well till all cocaine is dissolved (No need to chop or crush it should all dissolve by stirring as 1 Gram pure cocaine will dissolve in as little as 2ml Distilled water)...

Add 1 drop Ammonium Hydroxide from shot glass...should turn milky if any Cocaine is present and should dissapear after stirring...

Add 2 drops Ammonium Hydroxide from shot glass and stir...if milkiness stays keep stirring for a minute...

If milkiness dissapears...add 4 drops Ammonium Hydroxide from shot glass and stir 2 minutes...

At this point around a PH of 7.6 to PH 8 (depending on what its cut with) a sticky oily substance should start forming on the glass rod...This is the cut and not the base....

Be careful when stirring cause at this point if the glass rod touches the glass walls of the Bottle while stirring the sticky/oily cut will also stick to the walls and come out with the solvent on the Ether (non-polar Pulls)...

Continue adding 2 or 3 drops of Ammonium Hydroxide from the shot glass and stirring in between for 1 to 2 minutes until base starts forming and sticking to glass rod, and you can see the base separating out and sinking when you stop stirring...

You want to get it to PH of 12 to get all the base out...Going over will not damage the Base but I often find it leaves an emulsion between Polar and Non polar layers that takes a while to separate and that you also need to be very careful not to siphon out when you draw off Ether=(Non Polar Layer ) to evaporate....

If you cant measure PH just keep adding Ammonium Hydroxide from shot glass and stirring till no more milkiness is observed when adding Ammonium Hydroxide and the bottle stinks like Ammonia after stirring for a few minutes...

Put glass rod aside...

Fill bottle to rim with Non polar Solvent (Petroleum Ether or DiEthyl Ether or Hexane or VM&P Naptha...etc

Cap tight and shake very gently...you will probably still see some base in the middle layer...

Siphon off Non Polar layer at top with Large Syringe with Blunt Tipped Needle being careful not to go more than 3/4 way to middle layer or Water/Base/Ammonia Layer on Bottom....

Empty syringe into 2nd Clean Glass Bottle...

Do this 2 more times with fresh Ether and also put in the 2nd clean bottle...

Add fresh distilled water to non polar in fresh clean bottle, cap and shake well...

This time draw off water only from Under Non-Polar Layer and discaard...

Do this twice...

After the second Wash...dont draw off the water...

Draw off Just the Non-Polar (Ether, Etc...) and put most on Large Plate and some on small plate with fan pointing at them in a warm well ventilated room that is no where near an open flame (Gas Stove or Hot Water Heater or Furnace for example...)

In an hour or so depending on how warm the room is the non-polar would have started evaporating to the point that it is super saturated and you will start to see wet crystal clumps forming...

At this point remove the fan or have it blowing indirectly or it could blow some of the freebase off the plate...

Three Ether pulls for me take around 3 to 4 hours to fully evaporate and dry from the large plate...

The reason for the small plate is it evaporates faster so you have some to smoke in the meantime...

Just Please remember Richard Freaking Pryor and Don't Light Your Torch Anywhere Near where the large plate is still evaporating!!!!

You will know its fully dry when you try and scrape it up off the plate with a Razor Blade and it is so stat-icy that it sticks to the blade and your fingertips constantly...

You can also buy a Reptile Mat as long as it has variable heat settings and speed up the evaporation process by placing the plates on it during non-polar evaporation if you like...just stay below the boiling point of the ether by about 10 Degree Fahrenheit...it will result in smaller crystals due to the quicker evaporation of the non-polar but wont effect yield at all.

There you have it...Clean Freebase Cocaine!!!!!

PS: Take the mason jar and instead of discarding water/Ammoia/Base and water from cleaning Non-Polar...

Save it all in Mason Jar...Take Glass rod and stir it thru ether layer in Slop(Mason Jar) till you get as much freebase and sticky goop off as possible...

I save the slop jar and when there is a couple inches of ether and I am out of Base I siphon off...wash ether and evaporate and usually get a nights worth of Yellowish Crystals to get me through the Jone-sing!!

If you don't want to do this the only way to clean Glass Rod of all the sticky cut gunk is with the 91% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol), some Hot Water and Paper Towels!!

Now all you have left is to VAPE (Not Smoke or Burn) the Freebase and get blasted...

I use a Glass Vapor Genie (Google It) and it works the best for Vaping Base as well as Vaping DMT!!!!

I suggest if you cook up a Gram that you have some fast acting Opioid's around like Heroin or Crush-able Oxycodones to help Ease the Freeze :)

Personally with me that helps cause once I start a nights session I have to do the freebase till there is no more freebase left to do :)

I would be happy to answer any questions...


Comments


[5 Points] ksosk:

Look for the nigga with the whitest snow

No buying from no nigga that you don't know

Make yo way to the kitchen where the stove be

You get the baking soda I gots the D

Get the triple beam and measure out yo dope

Mix one gram of soda every seven grams of coke

And shake it up until it bubble up an get harder

Then sit the tube in some ready made cold water

Twist the bitch like a knot while it's still hot

And watch that shit while it can rise to the fuckin top

Now ya cocaine powda is crack

Nigga I hopes you strapped cause you might get jacked


[2 Points] ToShowWithWords:

U-47700 is a nice fast acting opiate, feels very similar to oxy as U-4 is a selective mew agonist and oxy is highly selective for mew over delta. imo It's the most euphoric opiate, if only the duration were longer. (recommended ROA is plugging or intranasal and for both dissolve the U4 in PG and then use oral syringe for ass or nasal spray for nose. Easy volumetric dosing. Opiate+coke or crack + whip-it is the most euphoric feeling in the world


[1 Points] None:

This seems like a lot of work but also must be worth it. How potent is this stuff compared to regular baking soda method. A nice ringer every time? Worth is if you've only ever tried the soda method? I just want a ringer again :C


[1 Points] lineking:

Freebase is indeed freebase. Op tek is standard chemistry acid-base extraction. Alkaloids as cocaine in nature are present as freebase. "Crack" is made using sodium bicarbonate, however after reaction (conversion) any byproducts and unreacted bicarb is still present with cocaine base. In short its unpurified cocaine base mixed with byproducts (sodium salts and unreacted bicarb leftovers). To achive pure freebase, washing Crack with water would be needed. Sodium salts and bicarb are water soluble, but cocaine base is not. Cocaine HCL as a hydrochloride salt need to react with an inorganic base to make reaction and to release freebase. Usually Crack Manufacture reaction byproducts are sodium salts and unreacted sodium bicarb and should be washed away with water and pure freebase will remain. Any inorganic base could be used to react with drug as hydrochloride salt to release freebase, weaker sodium bicarb, amonium or a stronger inorganic base such as NaOH. Important thing to say is there is no such thing as hydrochloride part or salt part. Whole cocaine molecule can be either as a freebase or as an hydrochloride salt. Hcl is an acid not salt! Here are formula of both conversions: Organic (cocaine) base + acid (Hcl) -> cocaine (hcl) salt. Organic (cocaine) HCl salt + NaOh -> organic (cocaine) base + NaCl + H2O (byproducts)


[1 Points] lineking:

Clear and awesome tek!

Would the boiling point of the petroleum ether make any difference? I have the choice of 40-60degC, 60-80, 80-100 and 100-120.

lineking Resoponded:

The lower the boiling point the better...It will evaporate faster at room temperatures the Lower Number you get...You will get smaller crystals the faster you evaporate the Non-Polar(Ether)....but potency will remain the same!! 100/120 would take like a month to evaporate!!!